Owner’s Manual

Living with your IWANA

Covers the current IWANA range: Landscape (teardrop), Outback 2.0 (squaredrop) and Drift (roomier compact camper). Keep this page bookmarked — refer to it before every trip.

1. Specifications

Three current IWANA models use galvanised chassis construction, with model-specific running gear and suspension specifications. All measurements below are in metres unless otherwise noted. Specifications are reference figures and may vary with final build and options.

“Queen” and “Double” describe the closest standard Australian mattress category, not an exact match — both are camper-proportioned (longer and narrower than an off-the-shelf mattress of that name), so use custom bedding sized to your trailer rather than shop-bought sheets sized for a standard queen or double.

Confirmed standard on the Landscape from the factory build sheet. If your Outback 2.0 doesn’t have these fitted, we’d recommend adding a small fire extinguisher and smoke alarm yourself — check with us if you’re unsure what your build includes.

2. Optional extras

Every IWANA is built to order from the configurator on our site. The tables below list everything available as an optional extra on each model — if yours has any of these fitted, they add to the tare weight and reduce available payload versus the base figures above.

My fitted extras: ______________________________________________

3. Before you tow

Run through this before every trip, not just the first one:

• Tyres on both trailer and tow vehicle — correct pressure and free of visible damage
• Wheel nuts torqued and no visible movement at the hubs
• Lights and indicators working front and rear (get a second person to check while you operate them)
• Electric brake controller in the tow vehicle set up and working
• Battery charged if you’re relying on it for the trip
• Gas, water and loose interior items secured — nothing should be able to slide or fall while towing
• Load distributed so the tow ball weight sits close to the trailer’s rated 120 kg — too little and the trailer can sway, too much overloads your tow ball

4. Hitching up

1. Reverse the tow vehicle so the towball sits directly under the coupler.
2. Lower the coupler fully onto the 50 mm ball and engage the locking mechanism. Confirm it’s locked — most couplers show a clear visual indicator, and you should not be able to lift the coupler off the ball by hand.
3. Cross the safety chain(s) under the coupler and attach to the tow vehicle’s rated chain points — crossing them means the chain cradles the coupler if it ever separates, instead of dropping to the road.
4. Plug in the 7-pin electrical connector and test brake lights, tail lights, indicators and the electric brake controller.
5. Retract and secure the jockey wheel fully.
6. Do a final walk-around: coupler locked, chains crossed and attached, electrics connected, jockey wheel up, nothing left on the ground.

5. On the road

A loaded teardrop or squaredrop trailer changes how your vehicle handles — give yourself space and time to adjust, especially on your first few trips.

• Allow longer braking distances than you would unladen.
• Take corners, roundabouts and highway on-ramps wider and slower than usual — the trailer tracks slightly inside your vehicle’s path.
• If the trailer starts to sway, ease off the accelerator gradually (don’t brake hard or swerve) and let the electric brakes and vehicle stability settle the combination.
• Stop and recheck the coupling, chains and tyre temperatures after the first 15–20 minutes of a trip — this is when a loose connection or an underinflated tyre usually shows up.
• Reversing takes practice. Go slowly, use a spotter where you can, and make small steering corrections rather than large ones.

6. Setting up camp

1. Choose level, firm ground. Unhitch only once you’re happy with the position — repositioning is much easier while still connected to the vehicle.
2. Lower the jockey wheel and level the trailer front-to-back and side-to-side before unhitching.
3. Chock the wheels.
4. Disconnect the electrics and safety chains, then lift the coupler off the ball using the jockey wheel.
5. Open the cabin/hatch and check nothing shifted in transit before you start unpacking.
6. If fitted, deploy the awning, roof-top tent, stabiliser legs or external kitchen setup per that accessory’s own instructions.

7. Living inside

Bed and sofa

The sponge mattress — 1.47 × 2.00 m on the Landscape and a double-style bed on the Outback 2.0 (1.2 m × 2.1 m) — converts between bed and sofa configuration. Both are camper-proportioned rather than exact standard mattress sizes, so bedding sized for your trailer fits best. Fold slowly and check nothing is caught in the mechanism before you sit or lie on it fully weighted.

Storage

Use the six compartment cabinets for anything that needs to stay put while towing — push-lock doors are designed to hold closed over rough roads, but heavier items should still go low and centred. Fold-down tables should be stowed and locked before you move off.

Ventilation

Use the built-in fans when cooking, running the leisure hatch lighting for extended periods, or in humid weather to reduce condensation on the acrylic windows.

8. Power & water

Battery

Both models run on a 100 Ah lead-acid house battery feeding the 12 V and USB outlets via the rocker switch control panel. Lead-acid batteries last longer if you avoid deep-discharging them repeatedly — recharge via solar, your tow vehicle, or external city power before the battery runs flat wherever possible.

Solar

If your IWANA has solar fitted, keep the panel clean and unshaded for the best charge rate, and check the controller/display (where fitted) to confirm it’s charging before you rely on it off-grid.

External power

The external city power socket lets you run off mains power at a powered site — use a rated RCD-protected extension lead and inspect it for damage before each use.

Water (if fitted)

If your build includes the water tank and pump, fill before departure, and drain the system before storage or if temperatures may drop below freezing, to avoid damaging the pump or lines.

9. Packing down

1. Secure all loose items, close and lock cabinets and the leisure hatch.
2. Retract the awning, roof-top tent, stabiliser legs or any deployed accessories fully before hitching.
3. Reverse the hitching steps in section 4: chock removed only after the coupler is engaged, coupler locked onto the ball, chains crossed and attached, electrics connected and tested, jockey wheel raised and secured.
4. Walk around the trailer once more before you drive off — check nothing was left outside, tyres look correct, and the door/hatch is latched.

10. Care & maintenance

The chassis is galvanised and the body is fibreglass, which both hold up well outdoors — but regular checks catch small issues before they become trip-ending ones.

Item	What to do
Tyres	Check pressure and tread before every trip; replace if worn, cracked, or older than the tyre manufacturer’s recommended age regardless of tread depth
Wheel bearings & brakes	Have a qualified trailer technician inspect these periodically and before any long trip — how often depends on your towing distance and conditions, so ask your technician to recommend an interval for your use
Chassis	Rinse off salt, mud and road grime after towing near the coast or on dirt roads; check the galvanising for any exposed bare metal and touch up promptly
Body & seals	Check door, window and hatch seals for cracking or gaps that could let water in; clean the fibreglass with a non-abrasive cleaner
Coupler & safety chain	Check for wear, corrosion or damage before every trip — replace rather than repair if you’re ever unsure
Battery	Keep terminals clean and corrosion-free; recharge fully before long-term storage
Cabinetry & hardware	Check push-lock doors and hinges periodically and tighten any hardware that’s worked loose
Fire extinguisher & smoke alarm (Landscape)	Check the extinguisher’s gauge and the alarm’s battery/test button before every trip, same as you would at home

IWANA doesn’t publish a single fixed service schedule here because it depends heavily on how and where you tow — a trailer used mostly on sealed roads for weekend trips has very different needs to one used regularly off-road. When in doubt, ask us or your trailer technician what’s appropriate for your use.

11. Storage between trips

• Store on level, stable ground, chocked, with the coupler protected from the weather if left connected to a stand.
• Keep the battery topped up — a solar trickle charge or an occasional charge cycle prevents a lead-acid battery from sulphating during long idle periods.
• Leave cabinets slightly open if the trailer will sit unused for an extended period, to help prevent musty odours.
• Cover the trailer if storing outdoors long-term, using a breathable cover rather than one that traps moisture against the fibreglass.
• If your build has a water system, drain it fully before storage.

12. Troubleshooting

Symptom	Check first
No 12V power at outlets	Battery charge level, fuse at the control panel, and that the rocker switch is on
Battery not charging	Solar panel is clean and unshaded (if fitted), external power lead is connected and the outlet is live, or the tow vehicle’s charge line is connected properly at the 7-pin plug
Trailer lights not working	7-pin connector is fully seated and pins aren’t corroded; test the tow vehicle’s own trailer socket with another trailer if possible to isolate the fault
Electric brakes feel weak or uneven	Stop towing and have the brake controller settings and the trailer’s brakes checked by a qualified technician before continuing
Trailer sways at speed	Check tow ball weight is close to the rated 120 kg (not too light), load is evenly distributed, and tyre pressures are correct on both vehicle and trailer
Cabinet doors won’t latch	Check the push-lock mechanism for debris or a worn catch; don’t tow with a cabinet that won’t secure

If a fault involves brakes, the coupler, safety chains, wiring, or anything you’re not confident diagnosing yourself, stop and get it checked before towing again.